Tuesday, 8 March 2011
Saturday, 5 March 2011
water to wine
this pictures were taken at a bar, of course without permission to (LOL!) but, i found it interesting. i did some work with photoshop. every photographer needs to learn some editing software of a kind. you can't do without it. i posted them on facebook and Pearl, one of my friends commented, "water to wine".
Tuesday, 22 February 2011
three point lighting scheme for amateurs
So, I promised to talk about three-point lighting soon and here it is. This is not actually a photography blog, so I’ll try to keep it as simple as possible. Whether you are an aspiring photographer / cinematographer or just a lover of art, you will find this helpful. A lot of naive people try to do a lot of tricks with light and I understand why. Everyone tries to be creative. That on hand is good but, one needs to learn the basic of something. If you can master the art of three-point lighting, your creativity is enhanced to the fullest. Having flair for photography is not enough, what people want to see is your picture. When I see your picture, what do I remember it for? That is another topic entirely. So, straight to three-point lighting, I’ll start with what is three-point lighting?
Three point lighting is a standard or basic lighting scheme. As the name suggests, three lights are used in separate positions to illuminate the subject/object (note that subject is for animate like humans, while object is for inanimate like products) as desired.
The key light shines directly on the subject as the main source of light. It is important to let your viewer think you have only one source of light. For an amateur, any source of light would do. It can be placed from about fifteen degrees to 45 degrees from the camera. The farther the angle, the better is good for me. You can try out different angles. There is no benchmark whether it goes to the right or left. It depends on where you want your source light to be. If you are aiming for a professional picture, you might need to cut the light from spilling all over. That again, will not be covered in this article.
The fill light helps to illuminate the part of the subject where the key light does not touch. It is always less than the key light. I usually prefer it half less than the key. You may try varying illuminations to suit your photograph. Your viewer should generally have a feel that the fill light is reflected light (maybe from the wall) from the key light. In some photographs, using a bounce board (reflecting surface) will do. This is usually placed closer to the camera and at a lower position (height) to the key light.
The back light (also called rim) is placed behind the subject. Its primary aim is to separate the subject/ object from the background. It also has a dramatic effect of highlighting contours. Make sure direct light does not get into the lens. Not only will it give a noisy (bad) picture, it is harmful to your lens.
With this mastered, you can now start to play around with the lights. Most photographers use photo editing softwares. They help to modify and improve your pictures. I recommend Photoshop. But, my mentor, Mr. Naresh Sharma always says, "a good photographer, does all the work during shoot". I hope I was helpful enough, especially to non-pros. Watch out for my next post.
Three point lighting is a standard or basic lighting scheme. As the name suggests, three lights are used in separate positions to illuminate the subject/object (note that subject is for animate like humans, while object is for inanimate like products) as desired.
The key light shines directly on the subject as the main source of light. It is important to let your viewer think you have only one source of light. For an amateur, any source of light would do. It can be placed from about fifteen degrees to 45 degrees from the camera. The farther the angle, the better is good for me. You can try out different angles. There is no benchmark whether it goes to the right or left. It depends on where you want your source light to be. If you are aiming for a professional picture, you might need to cut the light from spilling all over. That again, will not be covered in this article.
The fill light helps to illuminate the part of the subject where the key light does not touch. It is always less than the key light. I usually prefer it half less than the key. You may try varying illuminations to suit your photograph. Your viewer should generally have a feel that the fill light is reflected light (maybe from the wall) from the key light. In some photographs, using a bounce board (reflecting surface) will do. This is usually placed closer to the camera and at a lower position (height) to the key light.
The back light (also called rim) is placed behind the subject. Its primary aim is to separate the subject/ object from the background. It also has a dramatic effect of highlighting contours. Make sure direct light does not get into the lens. Not only will it give a noisy (bad) picture, it is harmful to your lens.
With this mastered, you can now start to play around with the lights. Most photographers use photo editing softwares. They help to modify and improve your pictures. I recommend Photoshop. But, my mentor, Mr. Naresh Sharma always says, "a good photographer, does all the work during shoot". I hope I was helpful enough, especially to non-pros. Watch out for my next post.
a bird in hand
more on lenses coming up.
fly away
... but he shook his little tail
and away he flew
i can't recollect but i always wanted to fly
to be free as this bird
clean up with style
Monday, 21 February 2011
lonely world
the fly was crying, "i need a mate". so i said to him, "let me take your picture and put on the web (internet)". but he was afraid of the spider.
the bull wants a child
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